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Post by silver on Jul 27, 2022 9:32:37 GMT
I believe Extra Crispy is actually open kettle deep fried. Replacing about 25% of your flour with Cornstarch helps also.
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Post by silver on Jul 27, 2022 14:09:19 GMT
You might try dropping in the chicken at 185 C., and capping to build pressure at the 1-1/2 to 2 minute mark, while retaining the 130 C. temperature setting for the ~9 minutes of remaining cook time while capped.
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Post by roosternballs on Jul 29, 2022 2:03:38 GMT
Honestly, i need to figure out why the PSI isn't going above 7.5 PSI even with the 80 KPa jiggler. I checked and i am not feeling any pressure being released anywhere else but that releasve valve. That 130C tempo is basicly borderline between boiling and frying. At least at this PSI. Dont get me wrong, i managed to save the chicken, but the breading texture wasn't any better then just air frying in my range. The chicken was delicious and juicy, but also a bit more saturated in oil.
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Post by roosternballs on Jul 29, 2022 3:28:11 GMT
16L pot. Told to add 2 gallons oil. Less then 4 pound chicken after trimmed and added. Is there any reason the PSI fails to reach 8+ PSI? Should i go higher in temps so more pressure builds? Not to critique your method, (sorry CHS method) but a high inital temp uncovered is going to release water/steam which builds pressure, so why am i leaving it uncovered for 3 minutes? If anything, it makes sense to seal right away, build pressure/temp then reduces temp so breading doesnt burn.
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Post by kgp on Jul 29, 2022 8:21:34 GMT
It's a low pressure cooker no matter what weight you put on. You will not get 15 PSI. Even though it looks like a commercial product it's not. More of a glamorized 1970's chicken bucket you get on Ebay.
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Post by Ken_Griffiths on Jul 29, 2022 10:12:46 GMT
My cooking process is usually along these lines…
I usually drop the fine, but thorough, coated breaded 3oz-4oz chicken pieces in vegetable oil that’s been pre-heated to around 380-395°F (195-200°C) - The temperature should never be allowed to drop to any lower than 275°F/135°C when all the (room-temperature) chicken has been added to the pot.
Cook uncapped for 1m-30s (move chicken with metal skewer so it’s not touching) and then it’s lid on for 7m-30s - leave flame high until the jigger is dancing, then turn down to medium heat to keep it moving and spinning.
If the chicken is too brown, then try a slightly lower drop-temperature next time (reduce by a few degrees until perfect temperature for the pot/heat-source is established). You may slightly ruin the cooked chicken in the early days with a new pot until the correct temperature and amount of chicken to use is ascertained.
At end of 7m-30s (9 minutes total cooking time) get pressure down as quickly/safely as possible and get chicken out the hot oil onto a rack as quickly/safely as practicable - if it takes longer than 20-30 seconds to lift the chicken out the oil then you’re not doing it correctly.. use slotted spoon or similar (work quickly).
Let the chicken pieces sit in air for one or two minutes to drain on rack (you may notice their colour will darken slightly) and then place in steam-filled oven set at 175°F/80°C, leave between 30 minutes and for up-to 2 hours - turning the chicken every 10 minutes.
10 to 20 minutes before serving to guests, remove the hot water bath and leave in dry heat (still turning chicken) and if the breading mix is correct, it should have the texture that you get from store-bought original recipe chicken. It should be slightly sticky and soft and definitely not greasy.
I personally like to leave the chicken after it comes out the oven for another 5 minutes or so, just to cool slightly as that’s how I normally would receive/eat store-bought chicken.
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Post by roosternballs on Jul 29, 2022 20:03:49 GMT
It's a low pressure cooker no matter what weight you put on. You will not get 15 PSI. Even though it looks like a commercial product it's not. More of a glamorized 1970's chicken bucket you get on Ebay. Im not understanding your logic here. The whole idea behind building pressure is preventing air ( or steam) from escaping. If the only vent is a valve that is supposed to allow 12 PSI to build up before releasing extra pressure, it shouldnt matter what product it is. (safely however is another story) As ive said, i couldn't feel or hear any other pressure being released anywhere else, so im not sure why its not going above 7.5 PSI. And btw, another member has the same unit and bought the same 80 KPa jiggler and got 12 PSI, but he said it deformed his lid and ended up replacing the lid with a stainless steel lid. No idea where he got the stainless steel lid. I wanted to ask him but i can't find the thread he mentioned it in. I think his name was night something?
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Post by kgp on Jul 29, 2022 22:37:34 GMT
It's a low pressure cooker no matter what weight you put on. You will not get 15 PSI. Even though it looks like a commercial product it's not. More of a glamorized 1970's chicken bucket you get on Ebay. Im not understanding your logic here. The whole idea behind building pressure is preventing air ( or steam) from escaping. If the only vent is a valve that is supposed to allow 12 PSI to build up before releasing extra pressure, it shouldnt matter what product it is. (safely however is another story) As ive said, i couldn't feel or hear any other pressure being released anywhere else, so im not sure why its not going above 7.5 PSI. And btw, another member has the same unit and bought the same 80 KPa jiggler and got 12 PSI, but he said it deformed his lid and ended up replacing the lid with a stainless steel lid. No idea where he got the stainless steel lid. I wanted to ask him but i can't find the thread he mentioned it in. I think his name was night something? Since it's not designed for high pressure it will leak or worse case explode. However, it can also be designed were the electric heating element will shut off or cycle on and off to prevent that kind of pressure. Can you take the temperature of the oil without putting the lid on to see how hot the oil gets before it cycles to off? Perhaps that is stopping you from getting above 7.5 PSI. Not enough heat to build up pressure. What is the temp dial set too on the front of the unit?
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Post by roosternballs on Jul 29, 2022 23:50:15 GMT
Im not understanding your logic here. The whole idea behind building pressure is preventing air ( or steam) from escaping. If the only vent is a valve that is supposed to allow 12 PSI to build up before releasing extra pressure, it shouldnt matter what product it is. (safely however is another story) As ive said, i couldn't feel or hear any other pressure being released anywhere else, so im not sure why its not going above 7.5 PSI. And btw, another member has the same unit and bought the same 80 KPa jiggler and got 12 PSI, but he said it deformed his lid and ended up replacing the lid with a stainless steel lid. No idea where he got the stainless steel lid. I wanted to ask him but i can't find the thread he mentioned it in. I think his name was night something? Since it's not designed for high pressure it will leak or worse case explode. However, it can also be designed were the electric heating element will shut off or cycle on and off to prevent that kind of pressure. Can you take the temperature of the oil without putting the lid on to see how hot the oil gets before it cycles to off? Perhaps that is stopping you from getting above 7.5 PSI. Not enough heat to build up pressure. What is the temp dial set too on the front of the unit? Yes, I am aware of the danger. Fully aware its not designed to handle above 7.5 PSI apparently. That said, I still want to at least see if it will reach 8-10, no intentions on trying to go even above 12. I just want to figure out why its capping off at 7.5 even with a 12 PSI jiggler valve. If the safety valve was releasing pressure i would understand. But im not seeing any pressure releasing from the safety valve or the gasket seal around the lid. If the solenoid that is supposed to only release when the timer reaches zero is the cause, im not feeling or hearing it leaking. As far as the temp on the dial i have been setting to 165C and either keeping that temp for the entire duration, or my last failed attempt was dropping to 130C (bad idea) that said i probed 165C at 356F at the surface. Deeper down is around a 10 degree difference of 346F ish.
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Post by silver on Jul 29, 2022 23:58:41 GMT
Given the dangers involved it is best to use your pressure fryer strictly as designed.
But as I stated previously, if you actually want crispy chicken, replace 25% of your flour with cornstarch and then open kettle deep fry it.
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Post by roosternballs on Jul 30, 2022 3:07:41 GMT
Given the dangers involved it is best to use your pressure fryer strictly as designed. But as I stated previously, if you actually want crispy chicken, replace 25% of your flour with cornstarch and then open kettle deep fry it. I got perfetly crisp chicken using 265C for 12- 15 min. No need to open kettle. I should have not listened to this CHS method. I will stick to my method from now on. Im sorry if it offends you. But what im doing works. I just need to tinker with the initial temp. Im thinking 150C at the least, maybe start at 165C. Then drop to 150C. But im not dropping it till its half way done.
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Post by kgp on Jul 30, 2022 7:48:42 GMT
Your units dial show it can go 200C + (more than 392F). If you set it at maximum do you get that reading on your probe without putting any chicken in? Does the power light go off when it reaches temperature?
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Post by silver on Jul 30, 2022 8:47:14 GMT
... I should have not listened to this CHS method. I will stick to my method from now on. Im sorry if it offends you. It doesn't offend me at all. I merely made the mistake of presuming that your quest was to capture the essence of Original, when the truth is that your quest is to capture the essence of Extra Crispy.
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Post by roosternballs on Jul 30, 2022 15:07:44 GMT
Your units dial show it can go 200C + (more than 392F). If you set it at maximum do you get that reading on your probe without putting any chicken in? Does the power light go off when it reaches temperature? I never tried 200C but from past temp checks the unit does run a few degrees hotter then what the dial is set for. And yes the green light goes out when it reaches the set temp and goes back on if it drops below set temp.
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Post by cascader on Jul 30, 2022 15:43:45 GMT
Since it's not designed for high pressure it will leak or worse case explode. However, it can also be designed were the electric heating element will shut off or cycle on and off to prevent that kind of pressure. Can you take the temperature of the oil without putting the lid on to see how hot the oil gets before it cycles to off? Perhaps that is stopping you from getting above 7.5 PSI. Not enough heat to build up pressure. What is the temp dial set too on the front of the unit? Yes, I am aware of the danger. Fully aware its not designed to handle above 7.5 PSI apparently. That said, I still want to at least see if it will reach 8-10, no intentions on trying to go even above 12. I just want to figure out why its capping off at 7.5 even with a 12 PSI jiggler valve. If the safety valve was releasing pressure i would understand. But im not seeing any pressure releasing from the safety valve or the gasket seal around the lid. If the solenoid that is supposed to only release when the timer reaches zero is the cause, im not feeling or hearing it leaking. As far as the temp on the dial i have been setting to 165C and either keeping that temp for the entire duration, or my last failed attempt was dropping to 130C (bad idea) that said i probed 165C at 356F at the surface. Deeper down is around a 10 degree difference of 346F ish. So either it is leaking excessively somewhere, for which you might check by running an instant read thermometer like a “thermapen one” around the gasket area and other areas, or there is insufficient moisture inside to turn to steam to overcome the intrinsic leak rate, in which case you might try brining the chicken, assuming you have the proper ratio of chicken to oil, or your aftemarket jiggler design is not allowing the pressure to act upon the correct amount of unit area at its base and so is acting like a different PSI than specified. The jiggler needs to mate to the post in a specific way to properly match the orifice size so that the post hole size and the weight together act to create the desired PSI blowoff.
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